I was a fan of Kiyoshi-san and Minoru-san at Koo in the Sunset, and I'm very happy to report that they are back serving up delicious sushi at Sushi An.
The new restaurant is located in the old Ino Sushi spot in the Japantown mall. Kiyoshi-san and company have renovated the space and it retains its intimate feel (8 bar seats and 8 table seats) and very traditional Japanese decor with beautiful wood furnishings and simple, elegant touches.
Compared to Koo, the menu has been greatly simplified, with an emphasis on traditional Edomae offerings. Three omakase options are on offer, along with a few maki selections and the option to order a la carte. One omakase offers a number of otsumami, along with seven pieces of chef's choice nigiri for $80, one focuses more on nigiri, with only one otsumami but twelve pices of nigiri-zushi for $75, and the third option is a good choice for those on a budget; with one otsumami, a kanpyo maki, and seven pieces of nigiri for only $50! Now that they work in a smaller venue with a scaled-down menu, the chefs are able to work at a slower, more calculated pace, resulting in increased quality.
And the food, of course, is very good. Good akasu (red vinegar) flavored rice (although I would personally prefer a more strongly vinegared shari) and nicely prepared neta. I chose the nigiri omakase option (1 otsumami, 12 pieces of nigiri, soup) for $75. The meal on this particular occasion featured madai, sanma, akami, o-toro, kohada, saba, katsuo, iwana, hotate, shima aji, and anago (not in that order, and I'm also forgetting a few items since I ended up ordering some additional pieces).
Highlights were the akami (incredibly flavorful bluefin from Spain, better than the o-toro), the delicate madai, the perfectly vinegared kohada (see photo) and the very fatty shima aji.
As expected, I found a good balance between shari and neta and very nice progression of flavors. A couple of things, in my humble opinion, could be improved upon; specifically the shari's seasoning (too mild, as I personally prefer stronger akasu flavoring) and temperature control (the shari, in my opinion, could be a little bit warmer). Having said that, An Japanese is still clearly one of the very best options for sushi in San Francisco proper; I strongly recommend it.
An Japanese Restaurant
22 Peace Plz #510, San Francisco, CA 94115